The breakouts are finally calming down, and then you catch your reflection in the bathroom mirror: dry, tight, peeling skin that stings at the touch of a favourite serum. Oral acne treatment does exactly what it is meant to, and while you are on it the skin can feel like it belongs to someone else, lips included.
The instinct is to reach for rich products and exfoliation, and the skin actually thrives on something far gentler.
This is a soothing facial protocol, given on Wimpole Street, built for skin in that state and for anyone whose barrier needs some care for any other reason.
What a stressed barrier loves
Fewer products, gentler ones, and calm skin between appointments.
The barrier is the outermost layer holding water in and irritants out. When it is damaged, water escapes and everything applied to the skin penetrates further and stings more. That is why a serum you used for years suddenly burns.
Repair means putting back the lipids the barrier is made of, ceramides and fatty acids, and leaving it alone long enough to rebuild. It takes weeks rather than days.
Gentle, non-acidic, non-foaming formulas give it the space to do exactly that.
What the treatment involves
A gentle cleanse with a non-foaming, non-acidic cleanser.
Hydrating layers pressed in gently without massage, so the skin stays calm.
A calming mask, chosen for barrier support rather than for actives.
LED phototherapy where appropriate, which reduces inflammation with no heat and no downtime, and is one of the few treatments made for skin in this state.
Extractions, acids, exfoliation and steam all wait for another day. Every step is chosen to soothe, and that is the point.
Choosing the right moment
If your skin is actively peeling in sheets, give it a little time first, so the facial can do its best work.
Your clinician advises on timing for resurfacing treatments, including microneedling, peels and laser, at consultation. A gentle facial is perfect in the meantime.
Your clinician runs through your medical history at the consultation.
If the timing is not quite right, the team will happily move your appointment to the day your skin is ready.
What to use at home meanwhile
Simplify to three things: a non-foaming cleanser, a moisturiser containing ceramides, and a mineral sunscreen. That is a complete routine for skin in this state.
Petroleum jelly on the lips, applied generously and often.
Pause every active, retinoids, acids, vitamin C and exfoliants included, until the barrier has recovered.
Lukewarm water rather than hot, and pat dry rather than rub.
It is tempting to add a hydrating serum, an oil and a mask on top. A simple routine is what repairs a barrier, and it is wonderfully easy to follow.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I have a facial while on oral acne treatment?
A gentle, non-acidic, non-exfoliating facial, yes, and it can be genuinely helpful for the dryness. Treatments that resurface the skin wait until later.
When can I have microneedling or a peel?
Your clinician talks you through the right timing at consultation.
Why does my skincare suddenly sting?
Because the barrier needs repair, so water escapes and everything applied penetrates further. It is a lovely cue to simplify.
Should I use richer products?
The right ones rather than more of them: a non-foaming cleanser, a ceramide moisturiser and mineral sunscreen. A simple routine is what repairs the barrier.
How long until my skin recovers?
Weeks rather than days once the barrier is left alone, and longer if you are still mid-course.
Is LED safe on this skin?
Yes, and it is one of the few treatments made for it. No heat, no downtime, and it reduces inflammation.
Can I wear makeup?
Yes, and choose something without alcohol or fragrance, and remove it with the same gentle cleanser rather than a wipe.
What about my lips?
Plain petroleum jelly, applied generously and often. Keep it simple: unflavoured and gentle.
How much does it cost?
Quoted at consultation, since the protocol is chosen for the state your skin is in on the day.